TRAVEL GUIDE TO FAVIGNANA, SICILY

Introduction

Favignana is the main island of the Egadi archipelago, located not far from Sicilian west coast, near the city of Trapani. Nine kilometres long and wide 4, it has a very characteristic butterfly shape, split in two halves by the mount Santa Caterina, the island’s highest peak. Surrounded by warm crystal clear water that cover a seafloor very rich in marine life, this place is ideal for sea lovers, in all of its aspects.

When to go

It is possible to visit the island all year around, for its beach life is suggested the period that goes from may to october, possibly avoiding august when the turism is at its peak. I have visited the island in September when is less crowded, and I enjoyed both temperature and prices, which are cheaper compared to August.

Piazza Matrice

How to get there

To reach Favignana is necessary to catch a hydrofoil or a ferry departing from Trapani’s harbour.
There are departures every hour and the ticket price is 11 euro one-way. It is possible to book tickets on-line on the ferry’s official websites, otherwise directly nearby the dock (both in Trapani either in Favignana). If arriving by plane at Trapani Birgi or Palermo, to reach the Trapani harbour there are different shuttle services or taxi.
From Birgi, the AST buses run every hour and stop is just outside the airport, one-way fare is roughly 5 euro.Taxi fare instead is 30 euro, which could be convenient if you are in 4 or if you are in a hurry to catch the flight..

USEFUL LINKS:

AST transport
Ustica Lines
Siremar

How to get around

The best ways to move around on the island are on scooter or bycicle. There are numerous rentals, the prices vary from one to another and there are differencies also depending on the month. In September, renting a bike costs 10 euro per day, 20 euro for a scooter (125 cc) that becomes 15 euro if hired for at least 3 days. I have rented at SDB MOTORS.

If you have just few days available it is advisable to choose a scooter, since you can move around faster and it is useful to have a quick look to what the island has to offer, looking for places and beaches that you might enjoy the most. Keep in mind that on a scooter it is possible to travel in two persons, which can be a little too challenging on a bike...for the one that rides!!!
I do not suggest of driving around by car, since it is not comfortable to move around and in the main beaches there are few parking spots.It is furthermore possible to use public transport, there are buses that run every hour from the centre of Favignana leading to the main beaches.

Where to sleep

There are various kind of accomodation, from hotel to camping site. I choose a flat booked on HOME AWAY. The city is not very wide and it can be visited easily on foot, so don’t be concerned about the position, even if it’s not right in the centre.

Useful links:
EGADI VACANZE
FAVIGNANA CAMPING

Where to eat

In the centre there are different restaurants, you just have to choose, for dinner the reservation is recommended since locals are always fully booked.
I firstly choose to rent a flat because I thought of cooking at home, for saving some money, but eventually we found the “rosticceria" Scialae! A very tiny place family owned located in a secluded alley just outside the historical centre (Via Archimede, 24). Here you can find Sicilian classic dishes (and not only those...), ranging from main dishes to desserts, wonderful meatballs made of tuna and ricotta , arancini and panelle (pancake made of chickpeas flour). Prices are fair and food of great quality, it is also possible to dine on spot, there are four small tables.
FACEBOOK PAGE
I further suggest the ice-cream shop Ciuri Ciuri (here you can also find tasty Cannoli), the bakery in piazza Matrice and the bakery Costanza in via Roma for its oven products.

Panificio Costanza

The beaches

The sea is accessible from the great part of the shores, this because the island is basically flat, apart from the hills in the middle of it. There are plenty of inlets and coves where it is possible to stop for a bath in pristine water and seabed rich in flora and fauna.
Sand beaches are few, the greatest part of them are composed by rocks, sometimes flat where it is possible to lie down. The beaches are mainly free and not equipped, for sure not suitable for those looking for the comfort of an umbrella and a beach chair, while rock shoes are essential. Reach the beaches is very simple, just follow the numerous signs along the roads.
Below a quick description of the most beautiful:

Cala Azzurra

Compets with Cala Rossa for the title of most famous and beatiful beach of Favignana. Light-blue crystal-clear water, thanks to the wide sandy seabed for many metres from the shore. Just a tiny portion of it is sandy, the rest is made of rocks, in any case made comfortable by the Poseidonia seaweed carried by the wind that has created a true natural pillow. Nearby there is a small parking place and a bar serving cold drinks, ice-creams and snacks.

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  Cala Azzurra from above

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  The Lighthouse near Cala Azzurra

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  The clear water

Cala Rossa

It is without any doubt the most spectacular beach of all in Favignana, its past use as a tuff quarry has generated the particular terraces conformation. The water is a deep blue colour, the shore is made of rocks and get into the sea can sometimes result difficult. Because of these reasons, this beach is not suitable for families with babies, elderly and pregnant women. There is a little kiosk serving soft drinks and rolls.

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  The beautiful Cala Rossa

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  The steps created by the former quarry

Cala Rotonda

Less known and crowded compared with the beaches previously described, this beach made of pebbles and rocks is the paradise for snorkelling lovers. Surrounded by a wild and unspoiled enviroment, it is characterised by the Ulisses's arch, a rock moulded in an arch shape by the action of sea and wind. This beach is suitable for all kind of person, unfortunately there are no services nearby.

Cala Rotonda

Calamoni

This stretch of shore is a succession of sand coves and flat rocks where bathers can easily lie down. It is near the road and close to it there is a bar, suitable for families with children.

Calamoni

Tonnara Florio

While travelling to Favignana, the former Florio factory is a visit that cannot be missed out.
This majestic complex has been built in second half of 1800 thanks to Florio family, that has decided to invest in processing and conserving tuna of Favignana. Through the years this has become one of the most important activities of Sicily, also introducing the revolutionary method of conserving tuna in olive oil.
For the local people this was a source of livelihood, since the great part of inhabitants used to work in the factory, but this meant also handing down the traditional tuna fishing called “mattanza”. This ancient fishing method consists in positioning in the sea of a series a fishing nets forming sort of “rooms”, that can be wide kilometres, in which the tunas are trapped.
The work of the “tonnaroti” consists in pushing the tunas into this rooms, up to the so-called “room of death”, where under the guide of Rais (the chief fisherman) the tunas are harpooned and lifted manually on the boats. The factory has ceased activity in the 70’s and last “mattanza” was held in 2007, so with it ends a tradition and an activity that was the identity of the island itself.

The building has been bought in the 90’s by Sicilian region and in 2010 the renovations was completed, and in my opinion it was an excellent refurbishment. Now it has become a splendid example of industrial archeology.
I have had the pleasure to visit the complex with Francesca Beltrano, a local guide, that apart of being very pleasant, was able to narrate the story in a fascinating way. The guided tour lasts approximately 1h 30 minutes and later it is possible to remain in the premises and visit them independently.

Gioacchino Cataldo, the last Rais.

Forte di Santa Caterina

The fort of Santa Caterina stands on top of the mount that bears the same name, highest peak of the island, from which is possible to enjoy a unique view of the island itself and of the surronding sea.
It can be reached from the paved road that starts from the village (by car, scooter, bycicle and on foot) up to midway, after is necessary to carry on on foot along the path on steps (approximately 35 minutes).
Unfortunately the building is crumbling and in danger of collapse or falling rocks. It is still possible to access to the fort, up to the highest terrace from which the view is spectacular. I suggest to visit the place at sunset.